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How to deal with unsolicited surf advice in the lineup

Surfing - 16. Февраль 2024 - 18:56

Surfers tend to think they perform better than they actually do.

But that's just human nature and applies to every aspect of our lives as social individuals.

Generally speaking, we are all better at pointing out others' flaws, faults, and deficiencies than assessing and improving ourselves.

Judgment is one of our most over-developed characteristics.

Whether we're watching a pro surfer in the heat or someone tearing a wave to bits in front of us, there's always something wrong or could be improved.

The problem is when we decide to share our thoughts and experiences with others in the form of a condescending lesson or tip.

This free, unrequested wave-riding consultancy-style advice may be authentic, honest, and truly helpful, but the receiver could not be open or interested in it.

Despite the consistent changes witnessed in the 21st century, surfing is still a sexist sport.

The male surfer's inclination for mansplaining women in the lineup is out there all over the world, in crowded and secluded spots.

But the surf professor that exists in all of us is sometimes stronger than our own insignificance. And so we open our mouths when we are supposed to keep it shut.

Tips to Keep Surfsplaining Away

Dealing with unsolicited surf advice and coaching from random surfers can be challenging, especially when the person is persistent and potentially aggressive.

So, what could you do to keep surfing on your own without getting gratuitous tips on how to improve your wave-riding skills?

Here are some polite and passive ways to handle such situations:

  1. Wear Ear Plugs: Wearing surf earplugs can be a subtle way to indicate that you're not open to conversation. When the person starts talking, you can point to your earplugs and mention that you can't hear well because you're wearing them;
  2. Express Gratitude and Disinterest: When the fellow surfer offers advice, respond with a simple "Thank you" or "I appreciate that" without engaging further. Follow it up by stating that you prefer to focus on your own experience and enjoy the waves without too much external input;
  3. Engage with Humor: Inject humor into your responses to deflect tension, lighten the mood, and discourage persistent behavior. For example, you can use the excuse of learning from your own mistakes by saying something like, "Hey, I've got a PhD in wipeouts planned! No need for the unsolicited advice - I'm taking the scenic route to surf wisdom." or "I've decided to become a connoisseur of epic fails in surfing. Save the advice for my success party – or should I say, wipeout celebration?" or even "I'm embracing the 'Do It Yourself' surfing method. No advice needed – just me, the waves, and a spectacular collection of faceplants!";
  4. Use Sarcasm: Repeat what the person is telling you to someone else nearby or use absurd statements like "You can't tell me what to do; you're not my real dad!" could be effective;
  5. Repeat Responses: If the person persists, you can calmly repeat a generic response, such as "I'll keep that in mind, thanks," without committing to implementing the advice. Repetition may signal that you're not interested in further discussion;
  6. Paddle Away Politely: If the person paddles toward you in the water, you can make a hand gesture indicating a stop sign and say, "Not today," in a calm yet assertive tone. This sets boundaries without escalating the situation;
  7. Express Intent to Have Fun: Politely let the person know that you're just there to have fun, not seeking improvement or coaching. A statement like, "I'm just doing my own thing and having fun. I don't care what I look like," can deter further unsolicited advice;
  8. Use Non-Engagement Techniques: If the person is aggressive or potentially mentally unwell, non-engagement techniques, such as not making eye contact, staring into the ocean, or paddling away quietly, can help avoid confrontations;
  9. Suggest Coaching Outside the Water: If the person persists and you feel safe, consider addressing the issue directly outside the water. Express that you appreciate their intent but prefer to enjoy surfing without constant advice. Suggest that they seek certification if they enjoy coaching;
  10. Seek Support from Other Locals: If the person continues to bother you, seek support from other locals, especially those who may have observed the behavior. Having allies in the lineup can discourage the person from singling you out;
Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

What causes the morning sickness in the ocean?

Surfing - 15. Февраль 2024 - 20:12

Morning seasickness in surfing refers to the temporary, rough, and messy ocean conditions experienced by surfers during early morning sessions, particularly prevalent in locations like California, Hawaii, and Bali.

Surfers are a sports tribe that usually wakes up early to enjoy glassy, uncrowded waves.

The so-called dawn patrol enthusiasts tend to believe that when it comes to getting the best ride, the earlier, the better.

But is it always like this? Do the early morning hours only bring perfect, windless swell lines?

Maybe not.

If you've been surfing for a while or have watched a surf contest's online broadcast, you might have heard about the concept of "morning sickness."

It's obviously not the same as the condition women experience during pregnancy.

The key to understanding morning seasickness, the ocean's ailment, lies in the dynamics of the early morning environment.

Dawn's Seasickness

The meteorological and oceanographical phenomenon is attributed to a combination of factors.

One of the first to address this unusual occurrence was surf forecaster Sean Collins, the founder of Surfline.

Firstly, the early morning is often characterized by haze, fog, or a marine layer from overnight moisture, creating a dark gray gloom that can distort perceptions of water conditions akin to a hangover.

You'll notice slightly choppy, bumpy wave faces morphing over the twilight sky.

You'll say it isn't good enough to paddle out, but that isn't necessarily true; it raises doubts about the quality of the upcoming session.

So, what's at stake?

The water surface conditions contribute to morning sickness due to variable winds overnight, leading to mixed-up and semi-sloppy conditions.

Additionally, tides at dawn are often either too low or too high, further affecting the wave quality.

As the morning progresses, the leftover wind bump gradually subsides, resulting in a smoother water surface.

The sunlight also plays a role, casting a clearer light on the scene, transforming the grayness into blue.

Certain regions, like Hawaii, may benefit from offshore winds as the day progresses, further cleaning up the conditions.

It's actually a very frequent phenomenon at Banzai Pipeline, forcing contest organizers to put events on hold for an hour or two.

In his explanation, Collins was clear: opt for a later start to your surfing session to avoid the initial challenges posed by morning seasickness.

Air and Land Temperatures

It's also important to underline the difference between air and land temperature in the early morning hours.

At dawn, when it's still early, and the sun hasn't warmed everything up yet, the land is cooler than the ocean.

This temperature difference causes something called a "land breeze," where gentle winds blow from the land towards the ocean.

Now, during the night, there might have been winds blowing from the ocean towards the land, creating some bumpiness on the water surface - the morning sickness.

Even when the wind stops, the effects can still be there in the morning.

As the morning goes on, the land starts to warm up, and the land breeze continues.

This period, before the wind changes again, is when the ocean becomes cleaner, and the waves get smoother and less rugged.

It's like a brief moment of calm just before things change.

Some places might have their local features, like mountains, that make this morning effect even stronger.

In desert areas, the offshore winds might not last long, and the sea breeze takes over pretty quickly, affecting the waves.

A good example is Namibia's Skeleton Bay.

So, with time, the ocean tends to settle into a more favorable state, offering surfers a cleaner, oily-like, and more enjoyable wave-riding experience.

In the event of an overnight offshore wind, the chop generated by a short-period wind swell should quickly disappear as opposed to 10-second-plus, long-period groundswells.

Ultimately, the balance between this unpleasant ocean condition and having an uncrowded surf spot just for yourself isn't easy to manage.

It's a fine line made of choices and compromises.

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

The differences between the GFS and ECMWF weather models

Surfing - 13. Февраль 2024 - 19:18

The European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) and Global Forecast System (GFS) are the leading global numerical weather prediction systems. But what are the differences between them?

A global numerical weather prediction system/model is a sophisticated computer-based tool that uses mathematical equations to simulate and forecast atmospheric conditions on a worldwide scale.

These models employ numerical methods to represent the complex interactions and processes occurring in the Earth's atmosphere, oceans, and land surface, including temperature, pressure, humidity, wind patterns, and other relevant parameters.

The Earth's atmosphere is divided into a multi-dimensional grid, and the models calculate the state of the atmosphere at each grid point over time.

Numerical weather prediction models use data assimilation techniques to incorporate real-time observational data from various sources, such as satellites, weather stations, ocean buoys, balloons, and aircraft.

These models then run simulations forward in time to predict future atmospheric and oceanic conditions.

GFS and ECMWF are the most widely used global numerical weather prediction systems on the planet.

They are used every day by national weather services, shipping and airline companies, and professional and amateur meteorologists and surf forecasters for multiple purposes.

But what are the differences between them? Which one is the most accurate weather forecasting model?

Global Forecast System (GFS)

The Global Forecast System (GFS) is a numerical weather prediction model designed and run by the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP), part of the United States National Weather Service (NWS).

The GFS is a global model that provides weather forecasts for the entire globe and is one of the primary models used for medium-range weather prediction.

The GFS provides predictions on a global scale, covering the entire Earth and making it a valuable tool for meteorologists and researchers worldwide.

The North American numerical weather model is particularly known for its medium-range forecasts, typically ranging from a few days up to about two weeks into the future.

It is less accurate for short-term forecasts compared to high-resolution regional models but excels in providing a broad view of weather patterns on a global scale.

The model runs four times a day, providing forecast outputs for different lead times and allowing meteorologists to track and analyze the evolution of weather patterns.

The GFS has a relatively coarse spatial resolution compared to regional models focusing on specific areas.

In other words, while it can capture large-scale weather patterns, it may provide less detail for smaller-scale phenomena.

The GFS produces various output parameters, including temperature, precipitation, wind speed and direction, atmospheric pressure, and more.

It incorporates real-time observational data into its initial conditions through a process called data assimilation, i.e., incorporating the latest observations from satellites, weather stations, and other sources.

The GFS is subject to ongoing research and development efforts to enhance its performance and accuracy.

Updates and improvements are periodically implemented to keep the model at the forefront of numerical weather prediction capabilities.

European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF)

The European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) is an intergovernmental organization supported by 35 European countries.

These member countries contribute financially and technically to the center's operations.

The cooperation allows for sharing resources and expertise, fostering advancements in weather forecasting and climate research.

Established in 1975, ECMWF's mission is to provide accurate medium-range weather forecasts (up to 15 days ahead) and other related services to its member countries.

It is recognized as one of the leading global centers for weather prediction and atmospheric research.

ECMWF has its headquarters in Reading, United Kingdom.

The center operates a high-performance computing facility, crucial for running complex numerical weather prediction models.

ECMWF employs advanced numerical weather prediction models to generate medium-range, monthly, and seasonal weather forecasts.

The accuracy and reliability of ECMWF's forecasts have made it a globally respected institution.

To improve the accuracy of its models, ECMWF relies on a vast array of observational data, including satellite observations, ground-based measurements, and data from other meteorological instruments.

The assimilation of this data into the models helps update and refine the predictions.

Local vs. Regional Vs. Global Weather Predictions

Both global and regional weather models require significant computational power to solve the governing equations of the atmosphere. 

The sheer complexity of these calculations, considering every point on Earth's surface and in the atmosphere, makes it impractical to achieve a perfect forecast in a reasonable timeframe.

The key tradeoff in weather modeling is the spatial resolution.

If fewer points are chosen for calculations, the forecast is completed faster but is less accurate.

More points result in a more accurate forecast but with a longer computational time.

Global weather models typically calculate governing equations with points separated by about 6.2 miles (10 kilometers) horizontally.

This is effective for predicting large-scale features like mid-latitude storm systems and major heat waves or cold snaps.

These models are the primary means for forecasting weather patterns beyond 3-5 days into the future due to their broader coverage.

With higher resolution, regional models are used to predict localized phenomena such as individual storm cells or tomorrow's high temperature in a specific town.

To achieve higher resolution, these models focus on a smaller geographic region. They are particularly useful for short-term forecasts (1-3 days).

Regional models address the limitation of global models in predicting small-scale phenomena like severe thunderstorms.

By running at a high resolution but for a limited area, they provide more detailed analyses for short-term forecasts.

Global models are best for forecasting large-scale features and long-term predictions, while regional models excel in detailed, short-term forecasts for specific regions.

Both models are valuable tools, and their effectiveness depends on using them appropriately based on their strengths and limitations.

Despite their higher resolution, regional models still have limitations in predicting the exact locations affected by severe storms.

They may offer accuracy within a county or two but struggle with pinpointing specific towns.

Both global and regional models are essential for weather prediction, each serving a specific purpose.

The better we understand their strengths and weaknesses, the better we'll use them effectively and avoid misinterpretations in forecasting.

GFS vs. ECMWF: The Differences

The ECMWF generally outperforms the GFS statistically, but there are instances where the GFS may perform better for specific events.

Let's summarize the main differences between both leading weather forecasting models:

  • Resolution: GFS runs at a lower resolution than the ECMWF model. The grid points in the GFS model are located farther apart (every 13 kilometers) than the ECMWF model (every 9 kilometers). Lower resolution generally implies less accuracy in forecasting, as the model may miss finer atmospheric and topographic features;
  • Model Skill Score: Statistically, the ECMWF consistently performs better than the GFS. Studies indicated that since 2007, the ECMWF has consistently produced more accurate 5-day forecasts for the Northern Hemisphere between 20 and 80N compared to the GFS;
  • Performance for Specific Events: While the ECMWF generally outperforms the GFS, there are instances where the GFS has been more accurate for specific storms. For example, the GFS predicted the formation of Tropical Storm Dorian before the ECMWF did. However, such cases are considered exceptions;
  • Model Variety: ECMWF runs one global model and 51 ensemble members, providing a comprehensive range of forecasts. In contrast, NCEP has a suite of models ranging from the global GFS model to specialized models like the High-Resolution Rapid Refresh (HRRR) for regional predictions and the Hurricane Weather Research and Forecasting (HWRF) for hurricane-specific forecasts;
  • Frequency of Runs: The HRRR model runs every hour, allowing forecasters to re-evaluate predictions more frequently than waiting for a global model to run every six hours. This is particularly useful for predicting small-scale features like heavy snow bands and thunderstorm clusters. ECMWF's atmospheric and wave models run every six hours;
  • Hurricane Intensity Forecasting: The HWRF model is specifically designed to provide more accurate intensity forecasts for hurricanes and tropical storms. Both the ECMWF and GFS models are noted to be good at predicting the track of hurricanes but less accurate in forecasting their intensity;
  • Comprehensive Atmospheric View: The suite of regional models supported by the US Government's weather prediction system, while potentially limiting the accuracy of the global GFS model, provides a more comprehensive view of the atmosphere. This includes specialized models that offer detailed predictions for specific regions and weather phenomena;

The ideal scenario for weather prediction in the US would be to have enough resources to support both a global model matching ECMWF's skill and a full suite of specialized/regional models.

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

Filipe Toledo withdraws from the 2024 Championship Tour

Surfing - 12. Февраль 2024 - 14:54

In an emotional message shared on his social media accounts, Filipe Toledo announced his withdrawal from the remainder of the 2024 Championship Tour season.

The decision, as Toledo expressed, was not an easy one and followed days of discussions with those closest to him.

Toledo acknowledged the support of the World Surf League (WSL), expressing gratitude for being granted a wildcard for the start of the 2025 season.

Despite the challenges and difficult decisions, he remains committed to returning to the competitive scene better than ever.

The two-time world champion opened up about the toll that a decade of competing at the highest level has taken on both his physical and mental well-being.

Toledo has been candid about his struggles, not only with injuries but also with mental health, emphasizing the need for a break to recover and prepare for the next chapter of his career.

"The platform of the CT has given me everything - it is a dream life that has allowed me to support my family in ways I could never imagine and have incredible experiences," Toledo shared in his message.

"I love this. I live for this. I have so much respect for my fellow competitors, both the men and the women on tour. You guys are amazing."

He Will Be Back

The decision to step back from the 2024 Championship Tour reflects Toledo's self-awareness and dedication to his overall well-being.

The Brazilian expects that the break will allow him to heal physically and rejuvenate mentally, ensuring that he returns to the competitive scene with the vigor and enthusiasm that have made him a fan favorite.

Lastly, Toledo expressed his passion for the sport and his intention to use this time off to fully recover, emphasizing that he aims to come back stronger than ever.

He thanked his family, friends, sponsors, and the WSL for their support and loyalty throughout his career.

"I hope my fans around the world understand this decision and will stick with me when I return to the tour next year. I wish my fellow competitors a great CT season ahead. I will be watching!" Toledo concluded, expressing his gratitude and respect for those who have been part of his journey.

As Filipe Toledo takes a break from the 2024 Championship Tour, it is not yet clear whether he'll compete for Olympic medals in Teahupoo, Tahiti.

Withdrawal After Hate

The decision to step away from the 2024 professional surfing season comes a week after Filipe's withdrawal from the Pipe Pro.

The reigning world champion's move ignited an unprecedented wave of hate, mockery, and public humiliation from public humiliation from anonymous internet surfers, surf media, and surfing court jesters.

Despite citing illness, the Brazilian's words were interpreted as fear of surfing by a few and soon followed by the remaining online mob.

At the time, despite the uncontrollable chain reaction of loathing and shame, there were nearly no public messages of solidarity from fellow competitors and notable surfers.

However, after the decision to put his career on pause was taken, many previously silent athletes praised Toledo's courage, self-care, and dignity.

In a month, the WSL's Championship Tour lost three world champions from three different countries: Stephanie Gilmore, Carissa Moore, and Filipe Toledo.

Coincidence, correlation, or causation?

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

Barron Mamiya and Caitlin Simmers win 2024 Pipe Pro

Surfing - 11. Февраль 2024 - 14:32

Barron Mamiya and Caitlin Simmers claimed the 2024 Pipe Pro at Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii.

The finals days were held in picture-perfect six-to-eight-foot waves at Pipeline.

The swell showed up and offered a dreamy canvas for the world's best athletes to showcase their talent on one of the heaviest waves on earth.

A huge day of competition in incredible conditions delivered the first-ever Perfect 10 in a women's Championship Tour (CT) at Pipeline, highlighting an iconic day that featured matchups that will go down in history.

In just her second season among the world's best surfers, Caitlin Simmers claimed a statement win at Pipeline, fearlessly attacking the solid Backdoor and Banzai waves all day.

This marks the 18-year-old's third victory on the CT and cements her place as one of the brightest stars of professional surfing.

"This wave is terrifying; I respect everyone who wants a part of it and everyone who doesn't because it's really scary out there," Simmers said.

"It starts with all the girls that battled the guys and barely got any waves, and I hope that this event showed the girls can do it. We're getting spat out all day, and it's pretty cool to see. I'm really happy to be a part of it."

The women's final featured a battle between last season's world no. 4 and no. 5, Simmers and Picklum, in the culmination of their success through the draw this week as the event's overall standouts in Hawaiian waters. 

Picklum put her foot on the gas first with yet another incredible ride at Backdoor to post a 9.27 as her first score for the early lead.

Simmers did not back out of the fight and came back at her opponent with a similarly deep tube on a foamy right for an 8.83 to stay right in the battle.

With time ticking down, both surfers were still sitting on minimal backup scores, though a smart, two-turn combination from Simmers gave her the edge to apply pressure on Picklum.

The Australian got a last roll of the dice in the dying seconds but failed to make a backhand barrel, and Simmers walked away with the win.

"Molly's a guru; she's probably the best girl out here, in my opinion," Simmers said of her opponent.

"One heat out here is like months of experience, and getting barrelled in a heat with your friend is the most fun thing in the world."

Earlier in the day, Simmers scored an incredible Backdoor gem, posting a 9.17 for a double overhead clean barrel, only matched by her precise technique to get a clean exit.

This near-perfect ride set the Oceanside local on a path to victory in the first event of the season.

Mamiya’s Perfect 10

24-year-old Haleiwa local Barron Mamiya claimed the men's title in fantastic fashion, overcoming Florence in pumping surf to claim an early pole position on the 2024 CT rankings.

Mamiya, who arrived on Tour after a wildcard victory in the 2022 Hurley Pro Sunset Beach, is no stranger to wearing the yellow jersey and will be lethal just up the road next week.

"That 10, I literally can't believe I made it," Mamiya said.

"I was in the barrel and couldn't believe I came out. Without John, without Jamie (O'Brien), without Uncle D (Derek Ho), I wouldn't be who I am.!

!I watched these guys surf my entire life, and watching John here is how I learned to get barrels at Pipeline, so I give him lots of credit for the way I surf."

The all-Hawaiian men's Final witnessed 2021 Pipe victor and mainstay Florence and proven Pipe charger Mamiya battling in their own backyard.

The first exchange was a split of the peak, Mamiya going left and Florence right, with the two-time world champion getting the nudge, earning a 7.33 over his opponent's 6.00.

Only moments later, both surfers started on back-to-back lefts, and while Florence's first wave of the set looked good, Mamiya behind got way deeper on a bigger wave and rode it to perfection, scoring a Perfect 10-point ride, the second to be claimed on an epic Finals Day.

As time slowly ran out, Florence found a few more opportunities, trying to manufacture a score out of lesser quality waves, but was unsuccessful, sealing the deal on Mamiya's second tour victory, his first at Pipeline.

"Growing up on the North Shore, this is an event that you always want to win," Mamiya added.

"To finally win it, with John in the Final, and to get a 10, I'm literally at a loss for words. I'll definitely never forget this day for the rest of my life."

Earlier in the first men's Semifinal, Mamiya put down a near-perfect heat total with 18.84 points for two of the best rights at Backdoor all week.

Florence’s 100th CT Event

Two-time world champion John John Florence added another impeccable run to a long list of results from his home event, continuing to post incredible scores in most heats on his way to a fourth final appearance at Pipeline.

This marked Florence's 100th career CT event, and he has his eyes set on a big year ahead with renewed vigor for competition. 

"Just growing up here and getting to surf this wave my whole life, I feel like it's a huge privilege," Florence said.

"It was awesome to have Barron in the final; he's such a good surfer; that 10 was so crazy."

"Being a competitor, you don't want to see it, but that was pretty sick."

"I'm really excited for this year. I was having a lot of fun competing, and I really can't wait for the next heat." 

At 31 years of age and after nearly 15 years on Tour, Florence's passion for competing looks intact, and his motivation and relaxed attitude promise more exciting battles as the CT continues next week at Sunset.

The Historical Women’s Semifinal

The second women's semifinal will go down in surfing history books as arguably the most entertaining showdown ever witnessed on the women's CT.

Picklum and Bettylou Sakura Johnson put everything they had on the line at both Banzai Pipeline and Backdoor, locking into deep, radical barrels on multiple occasions throughout their 30-minute matchup. 

Picklum had her 10-point ride and seemed untouchable on her way to the final, but in the dying moments of the heat, Sakura Johnson found an iconic Banzai left and rode it brilliantly with a late take-off, barely making it under the lip.

The 18-year-old threaded the barrel high to exit cleanly, earning an 8.33, slightly shy of the 8.61 requirement needed to turn the heat.

Regardless, the boundary-breaking matchup will be remembered for decades to come as one of the epic battles of Pipeline.

Earlier in the day, the Hawaiian scored one of the event's best waves, with a near-perfect 9.70.

The wave stood up tall on the Backdoor reef and accelerated as the Hawaiian matched its speed perfectly to take a clean exit after the spit.

Sakura Johnson records a second consecutive semifinal result at Pipeline, further cementing her place as one of the strongest surfers on the North Shore.

"You just really have to put in time out here at Pipeline," Sakura Johnson said.

"I'm really happy we got these waves; these are the days we dream of.!

"That wave came, and Caroline had priority, but she wasn't really looking, and I thought it was going to hit the reef really well, so I just committed, put my head down, and went for it, and I made it out, so I couldn't be more stoked."

2024 Pipe Pro | Finals

Men

  1. Barron Mamiya (HAW) 16.00
  2. John John Florence (HAW) 15.33

Women

  1. Caitlin Simmers (USA) 12.66
  2. Molly Picklum (AUS) 10.64
Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

Chuck Patterson: the big-wave skiing master

Surfing - 8. Февраль 2024 - 20:14

He calls himself a multi-sport athlete, and you can barely describe him better. Meet Chuck Patterson, the world's greatest wave skier.

Only a few humans can dream of riding humongous moving mountains of water at Jaws, Mavericks, and Nazaré on a surfboard.

Professional big-wave surfers are highly trained individuals who put their lives at risk every time they paddle or get towed into these massive and heavy giants.

Most of these athletes rely on guns, long and narrow surfboards with quick wave entry and average maneuverability characteristics, or short and heavy boards equipped with foot straps to tame the XXL swells.

These are the weapons of choice for breaking Guinness World Records, winning contests, and free-chasing storms.

However, there's always someone ready to try something new in high waters.

In the past, we've seen windsurfers, kiteboarders, and even skimboarders adventuring themselves in some of the world's most extreme wave-riding arenas.

Recently, foilboards entered the ocean gladiators' stadium, too, and gave flying above water a new meaning.

The Art of Wave Skiing

However, there's always room for new, creative forms of challenging the planet's largest water mountains.

Chuck Patterson is alone with everybody.

The Californian waterman developed a unique way of taking on waves of consequence like Peahi and Mavericks.

One day, he tweaked a pair of snow/water skis and asked, "Why not?"

Suddenly, Patterson found himself at the doors of wave-riding history, becoming one of the first, if not the first, person to ride massive waves using custom waterskis.

Sooner than later, the multi-sports athlete was developing his unique technique, making turns on open faces and using poles for control, unlike traditional water skiing.

After all, aren't waves mountains? And isn't water melted snow?

In big wave environments, the daring adrenaline-seeker uses equipment similar to one used in powdery white slopes - boots and poles.

But how did it all start?

Chuck Patterson and Shane McConkey were good friends.

Following McConkey's infamous line on waterskis in Alaska, conversations began about surfing waves with skis.

McConkey believed Patterson could accomplish it, citing Patterson's versatility as a water athlete and alpine athlete as the reason he was the chosen one for the task.

Chuck Patterson and his team initially experimented with a pair of jumping water skis - long, flat, and wide skis - that exhibited incredible glide.

Patterson got pulled into the wave, effortlessly cruising at high speed until he shot out in front of the wave.

However, due to the soft waterski binding and the skis' massive surface area, there was a lack of edge control.

Despite this, they deemed the experience a success, exclaiming, "Cool, we did it."

From Snow to Water: Testing Skis on Waves

A decade passed, marked by the untimely passing of Shane.

During this period, Chuck Patterson learned that Cody Townsend and Mike Douglas, fellow freeskiers, were delving into the realm of surfing waterskis.

Intrigued, Patterson acquired a pair and tested them on the Central California coast, coinciding with a day when they were tackling a substantial 39-foot (12-meter) slab.

The sight of Patterson on unfamiliar skis had his companions laughing heartily, eagerly anticipating the prospect of witnessing him navigate this new challenge despite his lack of prior experience with the equipment.

Once Chuck Patterson released the tow-rope, a profound realization unfolded - everything, from the glide to the angulation, fell seamlessly into place.

The ski boots provided crucial leverage over the skis, enabling Patterson to execute substantial giant slalom turns on the wave face.

That historical day, Patterson rode 20 waves on skis, the proof and confirmation he needed for the synergy between the equipment and the waves.

As the wave-skiing exploration continued, Patterson and his team towed to various locations, with Patterson opting for ski poles to enhance balance and comfort.

However, he recognized the ultimate challenge awaited at the epicenter of wave-skiing - the Alaska equivalent - Jaws.

The Conquer of Jaws

Having windsurfed, kitesurfed, surfed, and SUP'ed Maui's infamous Peahi, Chuck Patterson added another dimension by conquering it with wave skis.

Acknowledging the pressure of a large crowd on the first attempt, he faced skepticism from onlookers in the lineup, questioning the unconventional spectacle.

However, the support of local regulars like Robby Naish and Dave Kalama lent credibility to Patterson's endeavor.

The inaugural descent was nothing short of intense, with Patterson barely making the first drop, mirroring the descent of a cornice and accelerating faster than ever before.

Despite the challenges, he managed three exhilarating rides before calling it a day.

Undeterred, Patterson returned the following day to tackle smaller yet cleaner waves, reveling in the joy of executing big S-turns and gracefully fading back into the wave.

The Alaskan equivalent of wave-skiing had been conquered, adding a remarkable chapter to Chuck Patterson's legacy in the world of water sports.

The wave ski surfing pioneer believes that the mechanics of wave skis draw parallels to snow skis, particularly in the context of skiing powder.

The key distinction lies in the steering technique, shifting from utilizing the entire ski, as in traditional skiing, to steering from the middle of the boot to the back of the ski in wave skiing.

Notably, the front of the ski remains elevated out of the water, imparting a unique dynamic to the experience.

Chuck Patterson's mastery of this nuanced steering method has been critical in navigating the challenges posed by waves while donning skis, a feat that distinguishes wave skiing from its winter counterpart.

The wave skiing master has more exquisite plans for the future, including France's Belharra and Tahiti's Teahupoo.

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

Sticks and stones: the Filipe Toledo metaphor for modern surf culture

Surfing - 6. Февраль 2024 - 20:59

A father, husband, and family man with a past of mental health issues enters a bar. Everyone is drinking alcoholic beverages. He asks for a bottle of still mineral water.

Immediately after, the man hears insults; some question his masculinity, others his bravado. "If you don't drink a beer, you don't belong here."

Sigmund Freud's mob psychology is in full effect, and everything the man says is irrelevant and only fuels the crowd's anger and rage even more.

They don't want to know the reasons behind his abstinence. They just feel the need to judge him - for whatever he is, and he is not.

This could be the parallel story of Filipe Toledo.

Reality, though, may be a bit harder to cope with, especially in the social media-ruled world we live in.

The Brazilian committed a crime. Toledo withdrew from the 2024 Pipe Pro, citing illness.

And the public court was quick to react.

The Court of Public Opinion

Here are some of the comments that people were willing to make publicly about a fellow surfer:

"If it were the old rankings format, he wouldn't have won the world title."

  • Fact: If it were the old rankings format, he still would've won;

"Food poisoning is healed with one pill."

  • Fact: Most people need days to recover from food poisoning;

"He's a pro surfer, and he's being paid to surf in any conditions."

  • Fact: Any professional in any field is free not to put their life on the line if they don't feel comfortable. Moreover, he's surfing and gets paid for his performance. Not the other way around. If he does not perform, he doesn't get paid;

"He is the best small-wave surfer in the world."

  • Fact: Filipe Toledo has ridden the same size waves as any world champion on the CT;

The so-called surfing fans have a new favorite target for their everyday hate. It's a two-time world surfing champion.

But they're not alone.

It's also particularly self-explanatory to observe surf media outlets and inflated surf comedians fueling the social media fire around Toledo's performance at Banzai Pipeline.

The absence of interesting and relevant things to say or write leads people and organizations into embarrassing behaviors and publications.

And what's really interesting is that they all rely on other people's public disgrace or humiliation to get pageviews and ad revenue.

All hail surf culture's bible and clowns of the sport.

However, at the end of the day, if their sons, daughters, mothers, and fathers are put in a similar bullying situation, these people will move mountains to make justice.

"Oh, my children. Oh, my old parents."

Only a Surfer Knows the Greediness

Sadly, respect toward the other has never been something I expected from surfers in general.

I've been in the water for too long and seen it all. We're greedy and disrespectful, egotistic and narcissistic.

We see it every day in the lineup, and it is statistically relevant.

We are completely full of ourselves with no idea whatsoever of our own insignificance.

If people commenting on social media on Filipe Toledo's decision to withdraw from the 2024 Pipe Pro watched a clip of their own performance on an average wave, they would be embarrassed to even call themselves recreational surfers.

And what if Filipe is scared of big waves and hitting the reef? So what? Is fear a personal characteristic that excludes one from being on Tour?

Is the Championship Tour (CT) supposed to be a Big Wave circuit?

Do athletes need to compete in the most extreme and dangerous ocean conditions to become world surfing champions?

Do we really need to see necks broken and skulls opened at a professional surf contest?

Are weekend warriors now supposed to throw scores at competitors? Who decides the best surfer each season? Is it the public who has never paddled out at four-foot Pipe?

Are all CT surfers supposed to be equally good in all conditions? Since when is that in the rule book?

Since when is a world champion supposed to always do good at Pipe and Teahupoo?

The Fear of Having Fear

The list of professional surfers, including world champions, who had to improve their barreling skills, backhand game, or aerial antics is endless.

All professional surfers feel fear.

Fear keeps us alive. It's a body mechanism that keeps us alert and out of danger. It's self-preservation, and each one of us has its own.

People who don't feel fear are not brave.

Can you manage and work on your fear to handle it better or push yourself a bit more? For sure.

I have an irrational fear of spiders, needles, dogs, and heights. I am working on them, but it's a very slow and, who knows, endless process.

And, as a pro surfer, how can you ever become a world champion if you're the bravest, fearless tube rider but can't carve or unleash your air game?

We've seen Kelly Slater pulling out of competitions without questioning his reasons, but now we're 100 percent sure (because we live with Toledo's family) that Filipe pulled out of Pipe not because of food poisoning but because he's afraid of big waves.

We've seen surfers intimidated by crowds at the Rio de Janeiro CT stage.

Speaking of fear, here's something Slater shared with Forbes.

"I'm afraid of drowning and of getting a really bad injury on a shallow-water reef riding a big wave, both realistic dangers. Then, it just depends on how you deal with those fears. Sometimes, adrenaline and focus can help you overcome them. So it's assessing your fear, calculating it, judging it as best you can, and accepting the outcome."

The 11-time world surfing champion feels fear. Oh, the drama.

On January 2023, Slater also pulled out of the Eddie Aikau Invitational.

"Your ego gets in the way, obviously. But if you're not feeling it, you're not feeling it," the champion said.

"That's happened to me a few times on different swells over the years."

"There's been days where I just didn't feel comfortable with myself or my sleep patterns, or I hadn't big waves in a while, and so there are some swells I just don't surf, and today's one of those days."

Filipe Toledo: From Teahupoo with Love

But with Filipe, our moral compass changes.

We, the judges. We, the people with opinions that really matter.

And if this melting pot of surf culture wasn't already toxic, the silence of Toledo's CT peers says it all. Solidarity - (almost) none.

Fortunately, one relevant voice was heard.

Tathiti charger Matahi Drollet dropped a picture of Filipe Toledo inside a huge Teahupoo wave with the following words: "99 percent of the people commenting here wouldn't even catch this wave."

It sometimes feels like we don't deserve to have a competitive circuit and that, maybe, WSL is the least problem pro surfing has.

No one has to prove anything to anyone.

At the end of the journey, if we're lucky enough to look at ourselves in the mirror and reflect, it'll be all about what type of person we were and how good or bad we were to our peers.

However, something tells me the Brazilian will have a word at the Olympic reef break.

A word for the 21st-century keyboard surfers-opinion-makers and a medal for his children and family.


Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

What is a shorebreak wave?

Surfing - 5. Февраль 2024 - 20:43

They break close to the shore, and because of that, they can be life-threatening. Here's what you should know about shorebreak waves.

Shorebreak waves, also known as insiders, inside breaks, or shoreys, are a striking yet perilous phenomenon occurring when waves rapidly peak and break directly onshore.

These liquid detonations unfold on sharply sloping beaches, where incoming waves eschew the gradual breaking process and instead crash abruptly and steeply onto the shore.

This distinctive behavior poses a substantial risk to beachgoers, with the primary hazard being trauma injuries, a danger that escalates with increasing wave height.

The Mechanics of a Shorebreak

Shorebreak waves represent a nuanced version of a beach break, breaking on or very close to the shore.

They're not a rare event and could take place anywhere where swells can reach.

These waves share characteristics with traditional beach or reef breaks but distinguish themselves by breaking extremely close to the shoreline.

The danger lies not only in the proximity of the break but in the sheer force these waves exert.

Imagine the weight of a car pushing down on your body, pinning you against the sand - this vividly illustrates the impact that an insider wave can have, potentially altering lives forever.

Sometimes, its behavior is unpredictable and random, especially when high tides and big swells align.

Shorebreak waves are often followed by a powerful backwash that sweeps everything and everyone back into the water.

Hazards and Risk Factors

The hazards associated with shorebreak extend beyond the captivating visuals and the thunderous sound.

Trauma injuries, particularly to the neck and spine, are commonplace, emphasizing the need for vigilance.

Insiders can be deceptively powerful, even with waves that may not qualify as "high surf."

They are not confined to a specific region; it is a common characteristic of surf along the Southern California coast, where beaches exhibit abrupt changes in bottom depth.

One of the most eye-catching examples is Newport Beach's The Wedge.

The swells, traveling through deep water, maintain their integrity until they encounter shallower water near the shore, breaking abruptly in extremely shallow waters.

Steep shorelines and sudden changes in bottom depth contribute to the prevalence of shorebreak conditions.

Also, beaches that have been losing a significant amount of sand can suddenly morph into saltwater detonation venues.

Specific Injuries

The dangers posed by shorebreaks are manifold.

Even seemingly small inside waves can harbor enough power to cause bone injuries, pin swimmers to the bottom, and wash beachgoers, especially children, into the surf zone.

The sudden change in bottom depth, coupled with a steep shoreline, can impede a swift return to shore once beyond touching depth.

Neck and back injuries are the most common consequences of shorebreak incidents.

The force of the waves can throw swimmers and surfers headfirst into the bottom, highlighting the critical need to protect the head and neck by keeping hands in front at all times.

The inside break is not confined to a specific locale; it is a global phenomenon with renowned examples in various surfing destinations.

Supertubos in Portugal, and South Stradbroke in Australia stand as shorebreak spots where the waves display both power and the potential for thrilling barrel rides.

But the most famous examples of shoreys are in the Hawaiian islands.

Hawaii: The Shorey Capital

Hawaii, despite its picturesque beaches, harbors particularly dangerous conditions for these occurrences.

The unique geographical characteristics of the islands, lacking a continental shelf to slow down incoming waves, make shorebreak waves in Hawaii exceptionally powerful.

Even when the surf seems relatively small, the absence of a continental shelf amplifies the force of shorebreak, presenting a heightened risk of injury, especially spinal injuries.

One of these places is Ke Iki Beach, an infamous surf spot known for its bodyboarding stunts in the pounding rollers.

Ke Iki Beach is the locale of choice for Clark Little's stunning photo work.

Some brave surfers enjoy the sadist pleasure of dropping into these exploding waves with noticeable consequences.

Sandy Beach and Waimea Bay in Oahu and Kaanapali in Maui are also home to a deadly version of this type of wave.

Safety Measures

Staying situationally aware is paramount when navigating shorebreak conditions.

Lifeguards stationed on guarded beaches play a crucial role in ensuring beachgoer safety.

They respond to emergencies and provide up-to-date information on beach conditions.

Choosing guarded beaches and heeding lifeguard advice significantly reduces the risk associated with insiders.

Specific precautions are crucial for those venturing into shorebreak waters, especially when children are in the vicinities.

Never diving headfirst into it, ducking under oncoming waves instead helps mitigate the risk of being thrust into the ocean floor.

Protecting the head and neck at all times is a non-negotiable safety measure, too.

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости

Fort Point: the iconic San Francisco surf break

Surfing - 2. Февраль 2024 - 15:25

It is one of the most picturesque and unusual surf spots on the planet, but also a challenging and exciting one. Meet San Francisco's Fort Point.

If there's one surf spot where photos are most likely to impress surfers and non-surfers, it is Fort Point.

The photogenic left-hand point break peels from just across the iconic masonry fortification located on the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge toward the local picnic spot.

The imposing, 1.70-mile (2.74-kilometer) long suspension bridge opened in 1937 serves as the backdrop for a tricky yet highly sought-after novelty wave.

Fort Point only comes alive once in a while. It's a rare and sensitive gem with many secrets and hidden dangers.

The place is fed by unique, angled swells from the Pacific Ocean's Gulf of Farrallones, which must align with tides to deliver perfect surf.

On epic days, "The Fort" will provide a series of well-drawn wave lines that no surfer can resist.

There are several problems that are not immediately disclosed when you stand on the Crissy Field's promenade.

The legendary San Francisco surf break has strong currents that can suck you all the way out the gate.

Furthermore, the slippery rocks in the lineup and the shipping hazards make it an idyllic wave-riding arena for advanced and experienced surfers only.

On December 13, 2020, experienced bodyboarder and cherished San Francisco pie maker Haruwn Wesley died at Fort Point after hitting a large rock, becoming unconscious and submerging underwater.

The 64-year-old was riding double overhead waves, something he had been doing on the spot for decades.

Despite its unpredictability and rare nature, the funky Fort Point stays clean during large winter swells, south winds, and a low, rising tide.

A Highly Defended Surf Break

Localism is also something that should be mentioned and taken into consideration before paddling out.

If you don't respect the informal rules of surf etiquette and drop in on the locals, you will probably get into trouble.

In April 2003, a 31-year-old and a 23-year-old surfer were convicted of assaulting a 32-year-old bodyboarder in 2001.

The victim was punched in the nose and had his head held underwater.

The older surfer was banned from surfing federal parks in or near San Francisco for three years and ordered to serve 150 days of home confinement.

The younger surfer was sentenced to three years of probation and community service.

The attackers were also ordered to distribute leaflets warning fellow surfers that violence is against the law.

More recently, someone tried to ride Fort Point on a foil surfboard.

As if bringing a dangerous watercraft to a crowded surf break wasn't per se a very bad idea, the foiler was using a boat to tow into the wave before everyone.

The consequence was a foilboard destroyed by locals using the nearby rocks.

The Challenging Ride

The ride at Fort Point is unforgettable, though, with a mix of steep take-offs, occasional barreling opportunities, and mushy sections.

If you take off on a good-looking overhead wave, it will wrap around the shore and take well into the San Francisco Bay.

Remember to kick out smoothly because the surf terminal is often rocky.

Climbing up and down the rocks can be challenging due to their extreme slipperiness.

If you misjudge the tide, you may find yourself scaling them while waves crash against you.

Additionally, in certain situations, a stumble during take-off could result in being propelled directly into the boulder-strewn seawall.

Fort Point is one of the few surf spots in California, if not the only one, that faces northeast.

The ideal conditions are a straight west swell or a big northwest swell with an incoming tide.

The 20-foot swells that often pound the Northern California coastline and threaten container ships offshore will be the ones that light up "The Fort."

So, if the swell outside the Bay is at the right angle, you can dream of perfect eight-foot-plus walls of water peeling non-stop at San Francisco postcard surf break.

But beware: during winter, the tide goes from 7 to -2.2 feet in six hours, meaning that the current moving out of the mouth of the Bay at Fort Point can be faster than eight knots.

As a result, on a big day, surfers who paddle too far outside and an outgoing tide have been swept out to sea, making landfall more than a mile up the coast.

Wait For Your Turn

If you're new, start by catching the leftovers inside before getting yourself acquainted and moving to the main peak.

This is a very competitive break where everyone is trying to get the best positioning in a small take-off spot.

Some surfers get themselves closer and closer to the rocks to be in the sweetest, deepest spot and hold priority.

Consequently, you might have to take off so deep that you must make it through a section to avoid colliding with the inside rocks.

If someone drops in on you, chances are you'll end up in the rocks.

So, if you choose to sit inside, you may be fortunate to get an unridden wave or a wave on which a surfer wiped out.

To access Fort Point's dream left-hand wave, go through the Presidio, down Long Avenue, to Marine Drive, and to the parking lot.

It's like revisiting Alfred Hitchcock's "Vertigo," but in a surf movie version.

Категории: Виндсерфинг, Новости
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